Syria

Syrian cooking is a jewel of the Levant, famous for kibbeh, stuffed vegetables, muhammara, and the aromatic Aleppo pepper. Olive oil, pomegranate molasses, and a deep tradition of hospitality shape its generous mezze table.

Aleppo and Damascus are not interchangeable. Muhammara, red pepper and walnut pounded with pomegranate molasses, is Aleppine; so is the kibbeh made with sour cherries, and so is the seven-spice baharat that goes into it. Aleppo pepper is a named cultivar, halaby, sun-dried and rubbed with oil rather than simply dried, which is why it is fruity rather than sharp.

Sourness here is a technique rather than a garnish. Pomegranate molasses, boiled down until it is dark and syrupy, goes into salads, into stews and over grilled meat; sumac is dusted on at the end; and unripe grape juice and tamarind do similar work in different dishes. Olive oil is the fat and it is poured, not measured.

Warm chickpeas dressed with cumin, lemon, garlic, and olive oil, a simple Damascene breakfast.